Just inside the door of
Athan's European Bakery in Washington Square is a brilliant carnivale of
color. Sunlight fractures through dozens
of pastel cellophane bags, filled with springtime goodies. A freezer case full of gelato reminds me of a
painter's palate, from its bright, glistening purple blackcurrant and the deep
mauve of raspberry, to rich browns and beiges with undertones of cocoa or
nuts. From the shelves beckon little chocolate
pyramids and hearts and bars wrapped in fine gold foil. The urge to run around touching everything, to
plunge my hands into the bins of cookies like a kid in a toy store, hits me
hard.
Read the rest of this review at the Brookline Patch...
Monday, March 26, 2012
Saturday, March 3, 2012
Osaka Japanese Sushi and Steakhouse: Hibachi-Style Grill, at its Finest
It's eight-thirty on a Saturday evening, and the baseline of noise is high in Osaka Japanese Sushi and Steakhouse. Cheers erupt from the corner as one surprisingly sober diner catches a bite of grilled chicken in his mouth, slung across the grill by a chortling chef; from the next table comes a gasp of delight as four-foot high flames swoosh off of the grill.
Meanwhile, across the dining room, a chef armed with a squirt bottle squeezes a thin arc of sake into the mouth of one grinning diner. Diners at the table take up the fist-pounding count of "One! Two! Three!" until, somewhere around "Eighteen!" the drinker begs off, wiping a wet dribble of sake from the corner of his mouth.
Read the rest of this review at the Brookline Patch...
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Corrib Pub: Simple Food, Among Friends
In some ways, the Corrib Pub
is the most old-fashioned place I've been to in a long while, a throwback to
the type of bar where—please excuse me for this—everybody knows your name.
Here is a place where simple drinks are simply poured.
You won't find a frou-frou specialty drink menu; there's no pomegranate
syrup or chocolate shavings. What you will find, however, is an
incredibly fresh and effervescent Guinness, or Harp, or Bass from the tap,
perfect black & tans, and solid mixed drinks.
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Golden Temple: Dinner for the Lunar New Year
For many observing last week's Lunar New Year, the perfect way to ring in the year of the water dragon is with an enticing feast of Chinese food. And Golden Temple feels like an inviting place to celebrate.
This
is sort of a restaurant-cum-nightclub, one half resembling cruise-ship style
opulence—perfect
for the sixty-and-up crowd—and
the other half a bar under a high ceiling that, architecturally at least, makes
me think of dining inside a beehive. The
crowd is a mix of teenyboppers and middle-aged folks lingering over their happy
hour drinks, ordering everything from margaritas to sake to precisely-mixed
drinks with names like the Raspberry Retropolitan and the Suffering
Bastard.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Dok Bua: Thai food, from the exemplary to the fickle
I'll admit it: I'm confused.
Dok Bua Thai Kitchen, nestled in on Harvard Street, has the feel of a
roadside Thai joint—plain wooden tables and chairs, with the kitchen enclosed
in a wooden hut. It’s one of those
much-lauded local favorites, proclaimed a "hidden jewel" with great
value, and the 2011 Best of Boston winner for best Thai restaurant.
If you're familiar with good Thai food,
you'll know that it balances four core flavors: salty, sour, sweet, and spicy.
This balancing act is key to the complexity in such famous Thai dishes as, say,
a bowl of Tom Yum soup, or Som Tum, that remarkable papaya salad, crunchy and
soft and sweet and spicy all at once.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sage sauce
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Jerusalem Pita: Where Eggplant Steals the Show
As a rule, I’m not given to superlatives—with the written
word, it’s too easy to fall into a hole I can’t climb out of. But folks, the truth is that I’ve found the
best eggplant dish in Brookline.
It’s at
Jerusalem Pita, just off of Coolidge Corner, selected at random from a menu
endearingly full of spelling errors. The Eggplant Rolls are somewhat
doleful-looking bits of cold eggplant, perhaps inviting a bit of ‘order remorse’
when you see them on the plate, weeping olive oil and spooned over with a green
relish of raw garlic, parsley, dill (the dill most of all, that marvelous, underappreciated
herb). But take one bite of this little
appetizer and you’ll rhapsodize for hours about these long-marinated,
ultra-tender morsels, about their perfect blend of garlic and seasonings, about
the keen, zesty taste of the dill and parsley.
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